Shakedown Sail in the Mitten: Part 2

After a few fun days camping with my family, we returned to Alaya ready for the next phase of our travels. We decided to slowly work our way back to Toledo Beach, trying to both sail more (instead of motor) and anchor out more (instead of spending the nights in marinas). We wanted to be back by mid-August for more boat projects before heading for the Erie Canal later this fall. 

But, before we could leave Petoskey, we had chores to do, including laundry and grocery shopping. We did four very expensive loads of laundry at the Petoskey Marina and then prepped the bikes for a 3-mile ride to Meijer. We took a “bike” trail that quickly turned into a “walk-your-bike” trail due to the steep grade and unusual surfaces. After some funny moments, including getting my tire stuck in a boardwalk, we made it to Meijer. We filled half a cart and somehow managed to fit it all into our two backpacks and bike saddle bags. Probably the most fun we have ever had grocery shopping, it really felt like we were cruisers!

The next morning, we left for Beaver Island – Lake Michigan’s largest island about 30 miles offshore. We had a sporty sail there and only had to use Pierre for a few miles. We anchored in St. James Harbor and settled into a breezy but comfortable afternoon. We met another cruiser after helping him retrieve his rouge dinghy and went ashore to have a beer at Whiskey Point Brewing Company. The next morning, we worked on some boat projects. Unfortunately, later that afternoon, I got stung by a bee on my pinkie finger. I have a slight bee allergy, so we decided to move to the marina in case I needed medical assistance. Luckily, I felt a lot better after some benadryl, ice and a nap. Once I was feeling better, we explored downtown. Beaver Island has a very cool vibe, we’d love to go back again. 

After two eventful days in Beaver Island, we cast our lines again, this time heading for Cheboygan, which meant we got to go under our favorite bridge again! We sailed for the first third of the trip but then had to motor the rest of the way. We were able to get our headsail up just as we went under the bridge. We arrived at Duncan’s Bay in the late afternoon and anchored in a wide open, sandy spot. Once the anchor was settled, we launched the Maggie P. and rowed to a beautiful state beach on the bay. We had a picnic dinner on the beach and then rowed back for a video chat with our friends Danielle and Ethan, who are cruising on their boat in the PNW. 

The next morning, we rowed the Margaret P. to shore and walked into Cheboygan for the day. We visited their farmer’s market and had beers at Cheboygan Brewing Company. Another lovely Michigan town! We had a long, upwind row back to the boat but we were rewarded with a quiet night at anchor. We spent the entire next day working on boat projects. I sewed flaps to attach our first solar panel to the canvas cockpit enclosure and Lucas started the wiring for the panels. 

After three nights at anchor in Cheboygan (our new record!), we packed up the following morning and headed east to Presque Isle. We sailed a good chunk of the trip in sporty conditions. Unfortunately, the waves continued to build as we got closer to Presque Isle, making for an uncomfortable last few miles. But we got into the marina without trouble and met some lovely fellow cruisers. The next day, we did a load of very inexpensive laundry and then rode our bikes to the New and Old Lighthouses. Both lighthouses were built in the 1800’s, about 30 years apart. Presque Isle is a beautiful, quiet place that we both really enjoyed. We moved Alaya to the anchorage just on the other side of the bay and spent a fun afternoon chatting with Steve and Linda, fellow cruisers who were anchored next to us. 

Based on a recommendation from Steve and Linda, we took a slow 5 mile sail to Belle Bay, near False Presque Isle, the next day. It was another beautiful, secluded spot. Steve and Linda picked us up in their dinghy once we were settled and we spent the afternoon walking along the beach chatting. After two intense games of Battleship in the cockpit (Emily: 1, Lucas: 1), we went to bed, ready to move south the next day. 

Over the next two days, we worked our way south along Michigan’s Lake Huron Coast, stopping for a night in Harrisville and Harbor Beach. We made it under the Blue Water Bridge on the afternoon of our third moving day and tied up to the wall at the Port Huron Yacht Club for the night. We walked into town for some margaritas and found a local theater showing Barbie. First time we have been to the movies since the pandemic, it was worth the wait!

The next day, we flew down the river thanks to a two knot current helping us the entire way. We made it to Safe Harbor – Jefferson Beach in Lake St. Clair by early afternoon. Lucas expertly docked us in a tight spot and we settled in for three nights at the marina. After four moving days in a row, it was lovely to stay in one spot. We worked on boat projects, visited with our friends Brendan and Aleyna and grocery shopped. 

Our next destination was Safe Harbor – Detroit River where we stayed for another three days. This marina was located right across from Belle Isle, so we rode our bikes over to the island on our second day there. We had never been and really enjoyed all the sights. We visited the Dossin Great Lakes Museum and the Belle Isle Aquarium. We spent the evening catching up with our friend Shannan. 

We crossed back into Lake Erie on Saturday, August 19, just about a month after we had left. We had an uneventful motor back to Toledo Beach, docking around 4 p.m. We celebrated the end of our shakedown sail with our friends Bill and Brandie. Kyle, my cousin, joined us that evening to continue the celebration, even bringing some of the boat parts we had shipped to Ann Arbor. 

In total, we traveled 773 miles in Lake Erie, the Detroit River, the St. Clair River, Lake Huron and Lake Michigan over the course of a month. We visited 12 new places, docking at 10 new marinas and anchoring out for eight nights. We learned a ton and we still love each other and Alaya!

Now, time for more boat projects before heading east.